Bidar, Karnataka

How to reach there
Rail: Bidar lies on the main Mumbai- Secunderabad-Madras rail route and can only be reached by a slow passenger train.

Road: The Karnataka state transport has bus services from Hyderabad, Gulbarga and Bijapur.

Accomodaton
Hotel Bidar International, The Maurya Barid Shahi

Histosry
In 1424 Ahmed Shah I shifted his court from Gulbarga to a less constricted site at Badri, in grief of his beloved spiritual mentor, Bandah Nawas Gesu Daraz. Later the Bahamani dynasty continued to rule here till 1487 even after they were split into five rival groups. They refurbished the town by building a new fort, splendid palaces, mosques and ornamental gardens. They were then succeeded by the Adil Shahis from Bijapur, followed by the Mughals under Aurangzeb, who annexed the territory in 1656, before the Nizam of Hyderabad acquired the territory in the early 18th century. The town has a gritty charm, with narrow red-mud streets leading to arched gates and open vistas across plains. Bidar is nowadays a provincial backwater, better known for its fighter-pilot-training base.

What to see
The Old Town: The heart of Bidar is its medieval old town, encircled by crenellated ramparts and eight imposing gateways (darwazas). This predominantly Muslim quarter holds many Bahamani-era mosques,havelis and khanqahs.

Bidar Fort: Built in the 15th century by the Chalukyas and later strengthened by the Bahamanis, this fort is one of the main attractions in Bidar.

Mahmud Gawan's Madrasa: This theological college, whose single minaret soars high above the city centre, is the highlight of the old town. Gawan, a scholar and Persian exile, was the Prime Minister of the Bahamani State under Muhamad Bahamani III. Originally surmounted by large bulbous domes, this distinctively Persian-style building once housed a world-famous library. However in 1696 the building was burnt down after being struck by lightning, while several of the walls were blown away when gunpowder stored here by Aurangzeb's occupying army, caught fire and exploded. Yet inspite of these incidents, the elegant arched façade of the madrasa has still retained large patches of the vibrant Persian glazed tile work that once covered most of the exterior surfaces. This includes a beautiful band of Koranic calligraphy, and striking multi-coloured zigzags wrapped around the base of the once remaining minaret.

The Badri Shahi Tombs: The tombs of the Badri Shahi rulers, who succeeded the Bahamani dynasty, in the early 16th century, lie on the western side of the town. The tombs are randomly spaced and are surrounded by lush-green lawns. The most interesting is the tomb of Ali Barid, whose Mecca-facing wall was left open to the elements.

The Bahamani Tombs: Bidar, Ashtur is where the mausoleums of the Bahamani rulers and their families lie. The most impressive tombs are those, which belong to Allaudin Shah I, and his father from Gulbarga. The exterior of the tomb has glazed Persian tiles on its arched facade and the interior surfaces of the dome are writhe with sumptuous Persian paintings.

Chaukhandi (tomb) Of Hazrat Khalil Ullah: On the north side of the road between Ashtur and Bidar lies this beautiful octagonal-shaped tomb, which was built by Allaudin Shah for his chief spiritual advisor. Most of the Persian glazed tiles have dropped off the facade, but the surviving stone work and calligraphy above the arched doorway along with the views from the tomb’s plinth deserve a quick detour form the way.