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Khandagiri, Orissa
Accomodation
-
Oberoi Hotel
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Hotel Kalinga Ashok
-
Hotel Swasti
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Hotel Prachi.
How
to reach there
Road: Only a few buses
go specifically to the caves, but there are plenty which pass the
nearby junction, the main Calcutta to Madras highway.
The
caves on the opposite hill, Khandagiri, can be reached either by
the long flights of steps leading from the road, just up from the
main entrance to the Udaigiri caves, or bu cutting directly across
from Hathi Gumpha via steps that drop down from cave 17. The latter
route brings you out at caves 1 and 2, known as the "Parrot Caves"
for the carvings of birds on their doorway-arches. Cave 2, excavated
in the first century BC, is the larger and more interesting.
On
the back wall of one of its cells, a few faint lines in red brahmini
script are thought to have been scrawled 2000 years ago by a monk
practising his handwriting. The reliefs in cave 3, the Ananta Gumpha
or "Snake Cave"- serpents decorate the doorways - contain the best
of the sculpture on Khandagiri hill, albeit badly vandalzed in places.
Caves 7 and 8 both house
reliefs of tirthankaras on their walls as well as Hindu deities
which had, by the time conversion work was done, become part of
the Jain pantheon. The best place to wind up a visit to Khandagiri
is the modern Jain Temple at the top of the hill. Aside from some
old tirthankars in the shrine room, the building itself, erected
during the nineteenth century on the site of a much earlier structure.
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