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Tikse Gompa, Jammu &
Kashmir
Accomodation
How
to reach there
Every hour bus leaves from the town bus stand of Leh.
Tikse's
reincarnation as a major tourist attraction has brought it mixed
blessings: the income generated has enabled the monks to invest
in major refurbishments, among them the spanking new Maitreya temple
immediately above the main courtyard. Inaugurated in 1980 by the
Dalai Lama, the spacious shrine is built around a gigantic gold-faced
Buddha-to-come, seated not on a throne as is normally the case,
but in the lotus position. The bright murals on the wall behind,
painted by monks from Lingshet gompa in Zanskar, depicts scenes
from Maitreya's life.
The key-keeper will show you around
the tiny chapels behind the head lama's throne, pointing out the
ancient cloth-bound manuscripts stacked in wooden racks against
the side walls. Before you leave the Du-khang, check out the enormous
thangkas stored on the shelf opposite the main doorway. They are
unrolled once each year during the annual chaam dance festival,
Tikse Gustor. For most foreign visitors, the highlight of a trip
to Tikse is the view from its lofty roof terrace. A patchwork of
barley fields stretches across the floor of the valley, fringed
by rippling snow-flecked desert mountains and a string of Tolkien-esque
monasteries, palaces, and Ladakhi villages. Tibetan trumpets - played
on the rooftop at puja time.
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