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The Ajanta Caves are situated 108
kms. north-east of Aurangabad. They are carved in rock in the form
of a horse-shoe with stream Waghora flowing th rough it. Thirty
Buddhist caves; some unfinished comprising of either viharas(monastic
halls) or chaityas(chapels) are situated in its surroundings.
They
potray Buddhist architecture and sculpture in India. The creation
of the caves dates back to some period between 200 B.C. and 600
A.D. The caves were accidently discovered in 1819 by a group of British Officers
on a hunting expedition. The Ajanta paintings and sculptures illustrate
the major events from the life of the Buddha and tales from the
'Jatakas'.
Desite its age, most
sculptures remain well preserved. Natural light illuminates the
caves at certain times of the day that leaves one gazing at architectural
brilliance. The Ajanta Caves is placed on the World Heritage List
of Monuments and is today an important tourist landmark and a true
'Wonder of the World'.
Jataka tales from the main theme of
the paintings in the Ajanta caves. One can also find scenes depicted
from contemporary courtly life. These paintings include large individual
figures painted with an eye for colour and detail the captivate
one's attention. In the Ajanta paintings we see the brilliant union
between sacred and secular art. The best paintings are in cave numbers
1,2,16,17 and 19; and the best sculptures are in cave numbers 4,17,19
and 26.
The
shrine has a towering figure of Buddha preaching, flanked by attendants
with fly whisks. Although tucked away deep within the folds of the
hills, the sanctuaries are illuminated by natural light for some
part of the day. Using metal mirrors to reflect sunlight into the
inner recesses, monks and artists painted the wonderful frescoes
that glow on these walls.
These were in a fairly
good state when the caves were first discovered but have deteriorated
over the years with dampness and exposure to ever increasing numbers
of tourists every year. Still in caves 1,2,16 and 17 you can see
some undamaged portions of frescoes that are vibrant and clear;
the fading colours recall how beautiful these caves must have been
in centuries gone by.
The
Boddhisatvas figure prominently in the Ajanta paintings. They are
celestial bein gs,
often personifications of the virtues of the Buddha, who visit the
world of men. In later Buddhist philosophy, the time when these
rock shrines were hewn out of the hill side, the Boddhisatvas were
beings who had renounced the attainment of nirvana to attend to
human needs.
The
Boddhisatva Padmapani (cave 1) is a wonderful portrayal
of the tender compassion that infuses his ministry to suffering
mankind-gentle eyes, delicate lips about to speak words of consolation
and a lotus held in a beautifully drawn hand. In the same cave you
see the golden figure of Avalokiteswara with an elaborate crown
hung with looped strands fo pearls; pearl necklaces adorn his handsome
body and a gold girdle fastens his striped garment.
Under
royal patronage of the ruling dynasties, professional artists helped
monks and left a record of contemporary life with palaces and princesses
and processions along with tales of piety and faith. One can come
across some narrative panels in the caves that illustrate stories
from the Jatakas (large collection of tales of the previous births
of Buddha and his increasing strength and moral stature through
one incarnation after another). These tales are symbolic of the
Budhha's long journey through many births and are hence depicted
on the cave walls in an artistic manner.
The
nymphs, princesses and attendants of Ajanta are women of exquisite
elegance and charm, hair dressed in intricate syles and jewels highlighting
slender necks and waists. The flying apsara (cave 17, fifth century)
in a fashionable embroidered turban tells you of the splendid jewellery
worn by high born women; the pearl tassels of her necklace and turban
swing delicately with her aerial movement. Row upon row of Buddha
figures 'The thousand Buddhas', intrigue the observer in cave 2.
Queen
Maya's dream of the white elephant, interpreted by royal astrologers
to mean the birth of an illustrious son, is a detailed panel in
cave 2. Look for the dark princess and the lively panel of a dancing
girl and musicians (cave 1). Eloquent and moving is the tall Buddha
with a begging bowl asking alms from his wife and son in cave 19.
A court scene (cave 1) featuring a bearded man in fur trimmed hat
and boots, surrounded by attendants is believed to depict the reception
of a Persian embassy at the Chalukya court.
Before
you leave, climb up to the flat top of the hill opposite the caves
for a wonderful sweeping view of the horseshoe shaped gorge of Ajanta.
Tips:
- Carry drinking
water and snacks although some canteens have been built at the
foot of the caves.
- The atmosphere
within gets warmer towards afternoon.
- Timings : The
caves are open from 6.00 am to 5.30 pm.
- Transport Facilities
: ST buses offer an Ellora and Aurangabad city tour daily. Taxis,
auto-rickshaws and Tongas(horse-carriages) are means of transport.
- Train : Aurangabad
is on the south central railway and is connected to Mumbai by
daily trains Devnagri and Tapovan Express.
- Road : Mumbai-Aurangabad,
388 kms. Private and MTDC luxury buses operate daily from Mumbai
to Aurangabad.
How to Reach
Ajanta is 99 km from Aurangabad, 487 km from Mumbai (via
Jalgaon), 487 km (via Manmad) and 499 km via Pune. While Ellora
is about 30 km from Aurangabad.
Air :
Aurangabad is the nearest airport which is 108 km away. Alliance
Air (wholly owned subsidiary of Indian Airlines) flights connect
Aurangabad with Delhi, Jaipur, Udaipur and Mumbai. Aurangabad's
Chikalthana airport is 10 km from the city centre. Jet Airways fly
daily to Mumbai from Aurangabad.
Rail :
Jalgaon, 58 km away, on Central Railway is a convenient railhead.
Road
:
State Transport buses run from Jalgaon to Ajanta.
ELLORA CAVES:
A visit to Ajanta is incomplete
without visiting the nearby caves at Ellora. Starting from the 7th
century AD, Ellora carried on the great legacy of Ajanta and was
subject to Buddhist and later Hindu and Jain influences. The sculptures
at Ellora are massive in form and these rock temples and monasteries
were constructed between the fifth and eight centuries A.D.
There
are 12 Buddhist caves in all. The famous rock-cut Hindu temple of
Kailasanath is in Ellora. The Kailasa temple, dedicated to Shiva,
is the most glorious achievement here. The whole spelndid structure
of Kailasa is "an enormous monolithic rock carving in architectural
form".
Massive
blocks had to be left intact to fashion the inner sanctuary, the
two free standing pillars, the life sized elephant in the courtyard,
lesser shrines and cloisters. The main shrine was placed on a high
podium which was carved in a continuous frieze of lions and elephants
that seem to carry the massive structure effortlessly on their backs
as they march in slow procession.
The deep relief of the Shaivite themes and incidents from the Puranas
that so profusely ornament the Kailasa temple make them appear almost
like free standing sculptures. The impressive double-storied Visakarma
(cave 10) has a trefoil window in the facade of the upper leve,
set off by beautifully grouped flying figures. This is both chaitya
and vihara with a seated Buddha in the stupa.
There
are dwarfs dancing and playing musical instruments in bands of frieze
above the pillars. Next to this is a three storied monastery (cave
11).Exquisitely carved bracket figures of river goddesses adorn
the entrance to Ramesvara (cave 21) which has a low parapet wall
with a long frieze of elephants. Dumar Lena (cave 29) is dedicated
to Shiva and is similar in plan and style to the great cave shrine
at Elaphanta.
The
most interesting of the Jain caves is 32 with a beautiful lotus
carved on the ceiling of the shrine and a magnificent yakshi seated
on her lion under a mango tree laden with fruit. This is a double-storied
cave with paintings in a fair state of preservation on the ceilings.
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